Category Archives: Hong Kong

The One True Hooha

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“The One True Hooha” is the name that Edward Snowden used on online gaming forums a decade ago.  The New York Times put together something of a profile on Snowden yesterday, painting him as personally ambitious and someone with a great interest in China – he studied Mandarin and martial arts among other things.

The Atlantic has a very interesting comparison between Snowden and one of the people he calls (and I call) a hero, Daniel Ellsberg.  They list several differences but there are two that ring out to me – what Snowden revealed, as troubling as it may be, is legal. And Ellsberg remained in the U.S. to face the consequences of what he did, Snowden fled.

What does it all mean? I don’t know. I don’t think the full story is out there yet. I’m not rushing to judgement.  I have a lot of conflicting thoughts.

I mean, is anyone really surprised that the U.S. government is doing this? And while I’d like to say that I’m disappointed that Obama continued this program that Bush started, how many times has he promised to shut Guantanamo?

Maybe I’m less shocked because I’ve become inured to it. My family was investigated by the FBI in the 1960s – they went door to door in the building we lived in asking our neighbors about us.  I did stuff as a teenager that I’m convinced led to the KGB having a file on me. And as someone who works in IT, I know full well that anything I type on the Internet, anything I put on Facebook or search on Google, is available to anyone in the world, regardless of what “privacy settings” I’ve selected. Anything I buy from any online shop or any store with a “member card” goes into a database that can be mined.

And why did Snowden choose Hong Kong? I still don’t get this. If he thinks he will eventually receive asylum in Iceland, why didn’t he just go there? Why choose a place that has never known democracy and that is part of a country that has ruthlessly oppressed its citizens for 5,000 years, a country that is famous for spying on its citizens and jails dissidents without trial?

Snowden may be a hero. Maybe. But I see no basis for Hong Kong to deny extradition, if the U.S. should request that, which it likely will.

I try to put myself into his shoes. I work in IT. I’ve worked as a contractor. I could have easily been placed in a position with a company with values opposed to my own. Snowden signed all sorts of papers pledging to keep his mouth shut about what he was doing. I suppose one could argue that he signed those papers before he got the access he got and that he was so shocked by what he discovered that he decided this took precedence over whatever he signed.

But why did he choose to allow himself to work for U.S. intelligence agencies? Why not banks? Why not Wal*Mart?  He went where the money was. I’ve seen reports saying he was earning anywhere from $120,000 to $200,000 a year – not bad for a high school dropout with a GED.

And what about Booz Allen Hamilton? What guilt do they have in this? I would say that they’re so anxious to fill these positions, which are tremendously profitable to them, that they’re not properly vetting candidates.  ”Okay, this guy can spell UNIX, we can bill him out to the NSA at a 300% mark-up, what more do we need to know?”

From the Times article:

His disclosures have renewed a longstanding concern: that young Internet aficionados whose skills the agencies need for counterterrorism and cyberdefense sometimes bring an anti-authority spirit that does not fit the security bureaucracy.

“There were lots of discussions at N.S.A. and in the intelligence community in general about the acculturation process,” said Joel F. Brenner, a former inspector general of the agency. “They were aware that they were bringing in young people who had to adjust to the culture — and who would change the culture.”

Mr. Brenner said that with such a buildup after the Sept. 11 attacks, “you’re going to have some sloppiness and some mistakes.” It is remarkable, he said, that “disloyalty” of Mr. Snowden’s variety is so rare.

I think it took a lot of courage for Snowden to do what he did. But I think he did it wrong. I think if he truly wants to be a martyr then he should go to the airport today, get on a plane to Los Angeles, surrender to the authorities and get the trial started. Let’s get this all out in open courts.

Let’s let the rule of law decide and not the rule of mobs.

(I reserve the option to change my mind on this 62 more times in the coming days.)

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Hong Kong – Updates on Earlier Posts

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Regarding the post on the prosecutor who appeared to be soft on sex offenders, the prosecutor involved, Kevin Zervos, has a letter in the SCMP yesterday. It’s no surprise that he’s claiming that the SCMP quoted him out of context.  But what he writes in this letter is convincing.

At no time was I urging compassion for sex offenders. Nor was I responding to complaints that the city’s prosecutors and judges were overly lenient with sex offenders.

I was generally commenting on the use of the bind-over procedure and was asked for my comments about one specific case which involved a young female reporter who was hugged from behind by a man in costume at the Rugby Sevens. It appeared that the man was drunk.

He later wrote a letter of apology to the woman. In that case, after anxious scrutiny, and having considered all the circumstances of the case, including the seriousness of the offence, the woman’s views and the man’s remorse, it was decided that he should be given a bind over.

The woman fully understood the bind-over procedure after it was explained to her. She was keen to ensure that the man did not repeat his conduct and showed respect towards women in the future. This was stressed in our letter to the man’s lawyers.

I did not and am not advocating compassion for first-time sex offenders regardless of the offence and its severity. Last year, only 16 out of 646 indecent assault cases in the Magistrates’ Courts were dealt with by way of bind over.

Offences such as rape, sexual violence cases, sexual offences against those aged under 16 are dealt with with the full force of the law.

I am strongly committed to protecting victims of sexual offences, especially of sexual violence, and I have initiated a programme to address human exploitation cases.

I am removing him from my list of idiots in charge here.

An update on Hong Kong’s useless new cruise ship terminal, which hosted its first ship this week – and now goes dark until the next ship arrives in November.

Tourists who arrived with the first cruise vessel to dock at the new Kai Tak terminal gave a mixed review of their experience in the city, with some complaining of transportation confusion, taxi overcharging and too little time to take in the attractions.

The one-day stay of Mariner of the Seas was expected to deliver a bump in retail revenue, but it turns out not all the visitors were big spenders.

Aileen Webber, 62, from Australia, went to the Megabox mall on Wednesday night. “We were told it’s a good one, but there wasn’t much to see,” said “There was not enough transportation information. We wasted a lot of time at The Peak looking for a bus back.”

Sandra Cooper, 62, from Britain said she had a good experience yesterday but Wednesday night “was chaos”. She and her husband waited 30 minutes on Wednesday night for other passengers to board a shuttle bus leaving the cruise terminal. The bus was arranged by the terminal operator.

There were grumbles about the taxi service that night. Taxis were not allowed into the terminal at a point and a long queue formed.

Lai Ming-hung, chairman of the Taxi and Public Light Bus Concern Group, said he took a taxi and arrived at the terminal at 7.20pm, but security guards informed him taxis were not allowed inside. He made an enquiry with a Transport Department officer, and was told at 8.10pm that taxis could enter.

The terminal operator said many taxis were unwilling to enter the terminal with an empty car, but later admitted that the staff of one of the security companies wrongly thought taxis needed a permit to enter the terminal.

One British tourist said she was charged HK$400 by a taxi driver for a journey she later learned should cost around HK$70. “It’s very, very disgusting,” she said.

Lai suggested terminal staff could assist tourists taking taxis, as occurs at the airport. They would record taxi plate numbers and give tourists an idea how much their journey should cost.

They didn’t already know they would need to do that? They thought, oh sure, people coming off a boat who have never been here before and have just 12 hours here and are being dropped off in the middle of nowhere are gonna be fine on their own?

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Hong Kong – When Is Universal Suffrage Not Universal Suffrage?

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From today’s SCMP:

Beijing reserves the right not to accept the person chosen by universal suffrage to govern Hong Kong, Chief Executive Leung Chun-ying has warned.

“The possibility exists for Beijing and Hong Kong people not seeing eye-to-eye on the best candidate to lead Hong Kong. This is another issue we need to tackle under ‘one country, two systems’,” he said.

He noted that Beijing had occasionally declined to accept officials nominated by the city’s leader, indicating that “it reserves the same right over the chief executive position”.

Former chief secretary Anson Chan Fang On-sang took issue with Leung’s comments.

“There is no justification for [Leung] to paint such a negative and alarmist picture to an overseas audience,” she said. “It is his job to ensure that the necessary changes to Hong Kong’s electoral arrangements are in place … As long as [changes to electoral] arrangements provide for an election that is free and fair, Hong Kong people can be trusted to use their votes wisely.”

People. Hong Kong is part of China. The notion that Hong Kong will get true universal suffrage without there being massive internal changes in China first is a myth.  ”One country two systems” is a fairy tale to read to your kids at bed time.

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Hong Kong – Governed by Idiots

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The latest example, from today’s SCMP:

The city’s chief prosecutor says victims of indecent assault in some cases should show their attackers compassion if it is their first offence.

“Men will actually respect women more if they see women showing compassion to them and realising they are better off without a conviction,” Director of Public Prosecutions Kevin Zervos said in an exclusive interview with the Sunday Morning Post.

“There’s this boy-girl thing in life,” he said. “You have young men and women out there interacting socially. And when an incident happens and a man gets carried away … is it social misbehaviour or is it a crime?

Zervos was responding to complaints to the Post that the city’s prosecutors and judges were overly lenient with sex offenders. His comment also follows Secretary for Security Lai Tung-kwok’s remark last month that women should drink less alcohol to avoid being raped.

Linda Wong Sau-yung, the director of the Association Concerning Sexual Violence Against Women, is concerned that if victims think prosecutors are going to be lenient towards sexual offenders they will not bother going to the police. Only 50 per cent of victims report assaults and rapes, according to the association.

Obviously it’s not as dire a situation here as in India or South Africa. Even so, it’s distressing to read something like this.

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Wanchai Lunch Round-Up

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Now that I’m working in Wanchai every day, I’m certainly spoiled for choice when it comes to lunch.  I don’t find the variety as interesting as it was in my year in Sheung Wan, but anything is better than that miserable year I spent out at Cyberport.  Here’s my rundown of lunch spots – keeping in mind that my office is on the corner of Lockhart & Fleming and I don’t want to walk more than a couple of blocks at lunchtime.  The order of places listed is the order in which they are listed on Open Rice, which lists almost 1,800 places in the district.

I should also mention that while I enjoy cha chaan teng places, I don’t frequent them that often. The reason is pretty simple.  At lunch time I want a real chair, not a plastic stool, and I want to sit and take my time and read. I don’t want to be made to feel that I have 10 minutes to eat and get the hell out. (As a friend of mine has said, in these places at lunch time, all the waitress are bat por – bitches (excuse me if I didn’t get the pinyin correct, you know what I mean))

For some reason, Open Rice is only displaying the first 500 restaurants and won’t let me browse beyond that.  Well, this wasn’t meant to be comprehensive anyway.

But one reason I’m posting this is because I’d like to get your recommendations. What places in the area that I haven’t listed are ones I should be trying?

Joy Hing – As most people know, they do some of the best roasted meats in Hong Kong.

Sabah – I like this place at dinner time but their lunch set menus bear little relation to their regular menu and aren’t worth the price.

The Pawn – Very good lunch sets but really too expensive for me and too long a walk.

Paisano – When I am in the mood for a quick, cheap lunch, pizza hits the spot.

Oh Food Arabic Halal Cuisine – A cramped place on the 11th floor of an office building. Once was enough.

Canny Man – In the basement of the Wharney Hotel, their $88 set lunches are consistently good. The place is comfortable and quiet – but it’s a long walk if you wanna grab a smoke.

Delaney’s – They do a “Sunday roast” every day. Quality is consistently good. Friday, when I was super hungry, the roast that day was turkey and it really hit the spot. Expensive but good quality and a lot of food for the money.

Queen Victoria – $58 for a set lunch makes them the cheapest of the western pubs along Lockhart.

Coyote – I know people who swear by this place. The set lunches are all over $100 and I’ve never really enjoyed it.

Ebeneezers – With 2 locations and open all night, this place used to be great – 10 years ago. Now I can’t bring myself to eat there.

Agave – I actually prefer the fake Mexican here to the fake Mexican at Coyote. Much cheaper, too. But as a friend noted, their lunch menu hasn’t changed in years.

Triple O’s – I’m a burger fan and consider this place quite okay, though it’s just slightly too long a walk for me at lunch time.

Flame – A rotisserie chicken place from the owners of Thai Hut. A bit shaky when they opened but pretty good these days.

Tack Hsin – Large chain cantonese sea food place that does fairly average dim sum at lunch time.

New Star Seafood Restaurant – Another huge chain cantonese seafood place. I think it’s slightly better than Tack Hsin.

Dog House – When they first opened I thought the food was quite okay. But I don’t think it’s been as good in recent years.

Carnegie’s – Been here once at lunch time, fish & chips set lunch, wasn’t bad.

Old China Hand – The food has actually improved slightly in the past year. My gf swears by their “fried chicken in a basket” – which isn’t served in a basket.

White Stag – Of all the British style pubs along Lockhart, I’d say their $80 set lunch is the best.

Thai Hut – Some of the most authentic Thai food you’ll find in Wanchai. But this is primarily a take-away place and just has 3 small tables.

Spicy Fingers – I’ve been here a lot. It’s a terrific bar. And I’m a friend of one of the owners. But the food leaves a lot to be desired.

Hop House – At Brim 28, from the folks who own Hong Kong Brew House and Inside Out (and Grappas). Good burger. No free refill on ice tea.

Other notable places – but haven’t had lunch at these:

Passion - The pastries and bread here are fabulous.

Flying Pan - I’ve done weekend brunch here and think it’s quite okay, just never been in the mood for pancakes at lunch time (and, dark confession, I don’t eat eggs).

BO Innovation – I’ve only had dinner here once – and it was free. I know the place is controversial but I enjoyed it.

Yuyu Sushi – prices are in the middle range for sushi places in HK, quality in the middle range as well.

American Restaurant – This place is so old school the sign reads “Peking Food.” The food ain’t so great, the service can be slow, yet I love this place.

Katong Laksa Prawn Mee – I went to their Sheung Wan branch once and never returned. Is the Wanchai branch any better?

3 6 9 – Old school Shanghainese food.

Himalaya – Pretty decent Nepalese and Indian food

Crystal Jade – I’m a Crystal Jade fan but I assume this place is too busy at lunch time.

Chili Club – Awful fake Thai food.

California Vintage – 90 wines by the glass and pretty decent tacos and sliders. 50% off wine and oysters from 3 PM to 8 PM.  But Brim 28 is depressingly dead at night.

Peking Dumpling Wong – I always enjoy this place.

Istanbul Express – Very inconsistent. Some times it’s been quite good, other times the opposite.

Cinta J – Stick with the Filipino food and it’s quite okay. They’ve opened a “Cinta Express” take-out only spot that oddly isn’t open at lunch time.

Spice House – Cheap & cheerful Thai food.

Curry Pot – I keep meaning to try their lunch buffet but haven’t gotten around to it yet.

 Gold Coast – Above Spicy Fingers, been here a few times for late night hot pot. The tables are jammed too close together and it’s not great but it’s not bad either.

Thai Farmer – Authentic Thai food just steps away from the crappy Chili Club. Always a line for their set lunch, one of these days ….

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Useless New Ocean Terminal

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All the way back in 2009, I wrote this post about the government’s plans to build a new ocean terminal at Kai Tak. The key point there, one that seems all but forgotten now, was that the government originally asked the cruise lines to pay for it but after they ran the numbers, they backed off because they didn’t think it would be profitable. So our fearless leaders went ahead and built the useless thing anyway.

So now we’re stuck with this ugly thing taking up a huge chunk of the harbor.

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(The only photo I have of this thing is this one from March, taken from the window of a speeding bus on a hazy day. Three months later, it doesn’t look all that much different except at night, when they make it even uglier by lighting it up like a manic depressive Christmas tree.)

It’s about to open. And guess what?  300 days out of 365, it’s going to be empty.

The Standard reports:

The Kai Tak cruise terminal will be deserted for more than 300 days in its first year of operation unless the government can get more operators to divert their ships to Hong Kong or arrange a host of special events.

Secretary for Commerce and Economic Development Gregory So Kam-leung said projections show that only 20 liners will call at Kai Tak from its soft opening next week to the middle of 2014, for a total of 37 berthing days.

The terminal will have its soft opening on Wednesday to welcome the first ocean liner, Mariner of the Seas, which is carrying more than 3,000 passengers.

The next berthing at the terminal will be at the end of October and early November as a result of a joint promotion by the Hong Kong Tourism Board and Taiwan’s tourism authorities for the Mariner to ferry passengers between the two.

Oh, by the way, not only is the building ugly, it’s leaking.

However, construction is continuing in many parts of the terminal and leaks can frequently be found within the building.

So said the terminal was affected by the heavy rains on May 22 when the black rainstorm warning was hoisted.

Yeah, it rained, which it never does in Hong Kong, and I guess caught them by surprise. “You wanted it big, ugly and waterproof?”

By the way, “So” is Secretary for Commerce and Economic Development Gregory So Kam-leung. So’s qualifications for the position seem to come down to the fact that he’s a lawyer and a member of the pro-Beijing DAB party. I wonder if he ever staged any horse shows?

So estimates the economic benefits from the terminal could range from HK$1.5 billion to HK$2.6 billion a year.

How to realize these benefits?

So said the building can be used to provide spacious areas for exhibitions, conventions, conferences or even wedding receptions.

Because between HKCEC, KITEC and Asiaworld, plus the dozens of ballrooms and function rooms in hotels, we don’t have any convention or conference space.  And certainly there’s a desperate lack of spaces where one could hold a wedding with 10,000 guests.

I’d appreciate some of whatever it is he’s smoking.

The cruise terminal cost at least HK$8 billion to build. The “consortium” running the operation will pay the government rent of HK$13 million (plus a percentage of the operator’s gross receipts as variable rent) for ten years. How one gets from that to $2.6 billion per year is a mystery to me. How this “consortium” got this for an annual rent that is less than jewelry stores pay for 1 month’s rent on Canton Road is a mystery as well.

Said consortium is made up 60% by Worldwide Flight Services (owned by French company Vinci Group), 20% by Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd., and 20% by a subsidiary of Shun Tak Holdings Limited.  Ah, Shun Tak. Good ole Stanley Ho.

As usual, no one will be held accountable for this boondoggle, which has cost billions of tax payer dollars.

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SCMP Fiddle Faddle

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I’ll leave aside any comments on June 4th (been posting some stuff on Twitter and Facebook) and the SCMP’s coverage of same. But here’s another article in that paper that drove me batty today.

Some movie theater in HK has started a series showing rock concert films. The article only mentions one – a concert film with The Doors. The writer decided the hook to hang this piece on was to contrast it with another series of opera performances shown in local cinemas. He’s so desperate to put some sort of spin on it, rather than merely report on it (and I’ll leave aside the question of whether or not this is something worth reporting on) that here’s what he comes up with:

If the classical performances lured more mature audiences, then Rock Legend is meant for a younger set – albeit with a non-contemporary taste in music.

A “younger set”? I mean, okay, there are some people under 30 who are interested in discovering this music, but wouldn’t it be fair to say that most fans of rock from the 1960s are in their 50′s and 60′s?  Or am I now a part of the younger set?  Wishful thinking.

Or, who knows, you’ll be shocked to see a new group in the cinema lobby: Hong Kong’s ageing rock ‘n’ rollers.

So the inference is that people of a certain age who like classical music are “mature” while people of the same age who like classic rock are just “ageing” and, presumably immature.

I know, this is a nothing article, nothing to get upset about, maybe it’s just my mood tonight. But it’s frustrating that the SCMP can’t even do a puff piece without trying to pump it up into something it isn’t.

And while I’m on a rant … just updating iPhone apps in iTunes. There’s a new update for the Chrome web browser.  Which I am told contains “age restricted material” and I must click to prove I am over 17 years of age. A web browser. Age restricted material. A web browser. Seriously. A web browser.

Okay, go ahead, color me cranky, I don’t care.

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Refugees in Hong Kong

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Political refugees in Hong Kong get very little attention and it’s hard to find out a lot of information on the situation. The United Nations High Commissioner For Refugees – the UNHCR aka The UN Refugee Agency – barely mentions Hong Kong on its web site.  But at the moment there are somewhere around 1,500 “official” refugees in Hong Kong and their lives are not easy, to say the least. From the wiki:

Article 14 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights specifies that “everyone has the right to seek and enjoy asylum abroad from persecution.” At the end of April 2006, the UN Refugee Agency, also called the UNHCR stated that there were 1473 asylum seekers in Hong Kong waiting for a decision. 24.7% of them were women and 23.9% were children. The Hong Kong UNCHR receives 150 to 160 applications a month. Ninety percent of the asylum seekers in Hong Kong come from south Asia (India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Philippine, Nepal), 9% come from Africa (Congo, Liberia..) and 1% come from other regions. There are few Non Governmental Organizations who take care of these refugees in Hong Kong. The most active one is Christian Action which provides shelter, food, counsel and medical aid. RSD Watch estimated that of 798 cases decided by UNHCR in Hong Kong in 2004, there was an 18% success rate. Some cases can make an appeal, but due to the UNCHR’s backlog, some asylum seekers spend years in HK waiting for their case to be processed.

These refugees receive a monthly allowance of HK$1,400 per person from the government. That’s around US$180. That is supposed to cover rent, food – everything. They’re not allowed to work, at least not legally. And it can take years for their situations to be resolved and to find a country willing to offer them asylum. (In April 2013, a Sri Lankan refugee, a “torture claimant,” received a temporary right to work from the Hong Kong government. He was just about to appeal a legal decision denying him that work permit and then received one based on the “discretion” of the immigration director. This man has been in Hong Kong since December, 2000.)

On Saturday, a volunteer with the Christian Action Agency brought a group of six refugees (along with some of their families and friends) to PASM Workshop. This agency is teaching them skills that will help them find employment once they are resettled and in this case, this group is interested in photography.  5 of the 6 are from Sri Lanka, the 6th from India. One person in the group had experience as a professional photographer, the others were relatively new to it. Some of them brought some really ambitious ideas to our studio and it was exciting to watch them turn these ideas into photographs.

June 20th is World Refugee Day and there will be an exhibition of these photos (and more!) at the Fringe Club.

I did have a chance to talk with most of the people who came to the studio. It was amazing to learn that many of them had been in Hong Kong for as long as ten years waiting for their situations to be resolved. But despite their difficult conditions, this was a high spirited, warm and friendly group and it was great to have a chance to meet them and hear directly from them about their lives. I got the impression that while their lives were not easy here, they still saw it as an improvement over what they had left behind, and they were unanimously optimistic for their future.  I would love to share photos of them but I neglected to ask them for permission and given their circumstances, I think it’s best not to post them here.

If you’d like to learn more about the refugee situation in Hong Kong and what you can do to help, check out:

 

 

 

 

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Idiots in Hong Kong #7,384

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Two news items this morning caught my eye.

The first is small scale idiocy. A Mr. or Ms. Chow gave his or her domestic helper $50 to buy pork. The helper bought $35 worth of pork and put the $15 in her pocket, thereby denying Chow $15 worth of chow. Chow discovered that $15 (that’s about US$1.95) was missing and called the police. And the police proceeded to do what they do. For 15 bucks. Until finally a magistrate asked the police if they had something better to do with their time than to fuss over $15, at which point the charges were dropped. The magistrate asked the prosecution if they had considered other options. The news doesn’t report on the reply.

That’s small scale idiocy. Here’s idiocy on a larger scale. Last year the government raised the stamp fee on home purchases in an attempt to cool down the housing market.  This resulted in, among other things, a stampede to buy up car park spaces – as an investment. This worked out about as well as you might expect. In other words, people are losing money – big time.

A buyer named Li nearly halved the purchase price to sell his parking space at Pristine Villa in Sha Tin for HK$250,000, after buying it from Sun Hung Kai Properties (0016) in November for HK$470,000.

“I would never have thought that no one would be willing to buy my space, even when it was put up for auction,” Li said.

“I just wanted to pocket a quick profit.”

The sentiment for Hong Kong Garden is the most disastrous, said Billy Cheng Chi-kuen, Midland Realty sales manager for the area.

“Around 600 car parking spaces at the estate were sold by the developer but none could be resold in the secondhand market,” Cheng said.

The supply glut at Hong Kong Garden has dragged rents down to as little as HK$400 per month, compared with the HK$1,800 charged by Chinachem before. It is even lower than the HK$900 rent charged at a nearby temporary car park.

Hong Kong Garden is in Sham Tseng, which is somewhere between Tsuen Wan and Tuen Mun. It’s a bunch of apartment towers and a shopping mall and nothing else. And people actually thought other people would line up to buy parking spots there.  Some people did make a profit – those who sold off the spots for a modest gain immediately after buying them.

“There’s a sucker born every minute,” goes the old saying.

And then there’s the bit about the 15 year old Chinese tourist who had to write his name on a 3,500 year old temple.

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It says “Ding Jinhao was here.” Was he ever.

Granted, this is an isolated thing. I’m sure millions of Chinese tourists have visited this temple and most would have behaved quite well. But this thing is just jaw-droppingly stupid on so many levels.

 

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Say Goodbye to Rice

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Last Sunday afternoon I was in Mong Kok with a friend. It almost seemed as if Portland Street, in the area around the Langham Place shopping mall, was nothing but Mainland Chinese pulling wheeled suitcases behind them – loading them up with whatever shopping they were there to do. At this small pharmacy on a side street, there was a line out the door and I watched woman after woman come out holding as many packages of Pampers as they could carry.  I’m thinking to myself, “This is what they come here to buy? They can’t find Pampers in Shenzhen? Is the price so much cheaper in HK?”  I don’t know the answers to those questions.

What I do know is that a couple of days ago The Atlantic ran a piece on deadly rice in Guangzhou. This is not the first article I’ve come across on this topic though it is the first one I noticed in western media. It does go deeper into the, ahem, root cause of the problem.

The latest in China’s rolling cascade of food safety disasters comes from Guangzhou — the capital of Guangdong province in southern China, and one of China’s largest cities — where 44 percent of rice samples were found to contain poisonous levels of cadmium. That rice was being served to unsuspecting diners in restaurants around Guangzhou.

Unlike many other Chinese food scandals – rat meat sold as lambmilk tainted with melaminedead pigs in the river – the cadmium-laced rice isn’t just the result of unprincipled food providers trying to cut costs. Instead, it’s a reflection of the heavy levels of heavy-metal pollution that can be found throughout China’s farm lands. The country loses $3 billion a year to soil pollution.

While it’s less outrageously stomach-churning than, say, rat meat masquerading as mutton, the “cadmium rice” scandal, as the media has named it, is much harder to fix. Health inspectors can crack down on fake meat. But the soil pollution crisis is the result — and a telling example — of layer upon layer of state planning gone awry. Here’s why.

No ministry is accountable for regulating soil pollution, and earlier this year, the State Council pushed back setting up a soil pollution prevention system from 2015 to 2020. That’s despite the fact that between 40 percent  and 70 percent of China’s soil is already contaminated with heavy metals and fertilizers. That results in toxic levels of lead in a third of China’s rice and high levels of cadmium in another one tenth of it.

The government categorizes soil pollution levels as a “state secret.”This despite the fact Chinese academics have long been documenting the toxic effects of soil pollution — for example, one Chinese scientist found that the soil in at least half of China’s provinces and administrative zones is severely contaminated. The authorities have declined to publish the results of the first national survey of soil pollution, started in 2006; scholars involved in the project say the government has suppressed the preliminary findings.

It’s not just industrial runoff — it’s farmers, too. In addition to being a major agricultural producer, Hunan, where the rice was grown, is also a major producer of non-ferrous metals — one likely contributor to the high cadmium levels. In the last few years, a rising number of Hunan agricultural products have been found to contain toxic substances. And despite widespread soil pollution, there aren’t restrictions on planting in polluted soil, say academics. Plus, farmers use a lot of of phosphate-based fertilizers that contain cadmium, which is expensive to remove. One scientist estimates that improper disposal of fertilizer means that farmers leave around 65 percent of it to pollute soil and water. But the shortage of land and water resources leaves farmers with little choice.

The central government encourages this toxic production because it desperately wants farmers to grow rice. The pressure on farmers to produce comes from the government, which is anxious to keep food supply — and, therefore, prices — stable. Not only does it encourage high output, but it sets a minimum price for rice and other staples. Any time the price dips below that threshold, the government buys up rice from farmers and socks it away in the state rice reserve. And it bumped that up another 10 percent  at the beginning of this year, even though it was already way higher than international market prices.

Local governments flout regulations with impunity. There so far has been no reaction from the authorities in Hunan, where the rice originated,reports Xinhua. Meanwhile, the local Guangzhou Food and Drug Administration initially ignored laws requiring it to tell the public which brands contained the toxic substances, which companies had sold and distributed it, and what the health risks were. Though it eventually bowed to pressure and named the manufacturers and the brand of the “cadmium rice,” it still hasn’t released details.

Click over to read the rest of this very interesting article.

The whole baby milk powder thing didn’t personally affect us; there are no kids in our house.  But rice? If people start swarming over the border and buying every sack of rice in Park & Shop and Wellcome? That’s going to be a big problem – for everyone of course, not just for me.

And let’s face it, if 40-70% of China’s farm soil is polluted, that means this is in more than just rice. How much of our produce comes from China? According to the New York Times, 92%.

Here’s an excerpt from an article in the New York Times from last October that partially discusses this issue, in light of the rise in demand for organic produce locally:

Kimbo Chan knows all about the food scandals in China: the formaldehyde that is sometimes sprayed on Chinese cabbages, themelamine in the milk and the imitation soy sauce made from hair clippings. That is why he is growing vegetables on a rooftop high above the crowded streets of Hong Kong.

“Some mainland Chinese farms even buy industrial chemicals to use on their crops,” Mr. Chan said. “Chemicals not meant for agricultural uses at all.”

As millions of Hong Kong consumers grow increasingly worried about the purity and safety of the fruits, vegetables, meats and processed foods coming in from mainland China, more of them are striking out on their own by tending tiny plots on rooftops, on balconies and in far-flung, untouched corners of highly urbanized Hong Kong.

“Consumers are asking, will the food poison them?” said Jonathan Wong, a professor of biology and the director of the Hong Kong Organic Resource Center. “They worry about the quality of the food. There is a lack of confidence in the food supply in China.”

That, as it turns out, is one of the good things about living in Tai Po. This is farm country. We have an elderly neighbor who has taken a liking to my gf and she has this habit of giving her some of whatever she’s picked in nearby fields that morning.  Tai Po has several wet markets and all of them have vendors selling locally grown, organic produce. Yes, you pay a little bit more. But more and more, it’s worth it.

Hong Kong is totally unprepared to become a shopping center for China’s every day needs. Oh sure, let them scoop up all the gold and Rolexes and shitbox apartments they want. But daily staples? I predict things are gonna get a lot uglier here.

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