I’ve lived here for a long time without ever checking out ZhuHai, “the pearl of the sea,” the Chinese city immediately to the north of Macau. Since it’s so close, it’s always been on my list of things to do but I never pushed it because I was never quite sure of what I’d do once I got there. Finally on Thursday I had an excuse to go – business meetings. However because it was business I didn’t have a chance to really check anything out. I did get driven along that long beautiful park and beach that runs along the river; I got to see the famous statue sitting on a rock several feet off shore, drove past the amusement park (Pearl Land) and so on. But since it was business and the person behind the wheel a virtual stranger, I couldn’t very well ask her to pull over and stop and let me get out and take some pictures.
The ferry ride from Shun Tak Centre takes about 70 minutes and costs HK$190. The “entertainment” on the boat consists of several ads for places in ZhuHai including of course real estate ads for some development that touted itself as Geomantic, amongst other things, and then old episodes of Mythbusters. I arrived, I got picked up, I got driven to a meeting.
Following the meeting, the woman who was taking me around (no, it wasn’t like that at all, she was an executive with one of the companies I was meeting, married, kids, over 50) took me to lunch. It turns out that while ZhuHai may be almost as famous for its seafood as Hong Kong is, she doesn’t like seafood, so she took me to a restaurant that had almost none on the menu. The restaurant was named Mao Jia and was dedicated to the chairman. Walk up the stairs and you’re greeted with this vision:

The balloons are a nice, festive touch, eh?
The rest of the restaurant was pleasant but ordinary.

The manager saw me take the above two pictures and rushed over to explain that those were okay but that I wasn’t allowed to take pictures of one corridor lined with Mao photos. So of course I tried, but from our table this was the best that I could get:

I have no idea what was so special or secret about any of that.
Mao was born in Hunan province and I’m guessing that the food there was meant to be representative of where he came from. I asked my hostess what dishes were good there and she replied, “Everything!” I asked her if she could recommend any particular dish and she replied, “All!” Not terribly helpful. I ordered a beef dish and a pork dish, each slightly spicy yet somehow also somewhat bland. She ordered a vegetable – stir fried cabbage (sigh) and some rice. The menu (pictures and English) had the usual bizarre Chinglish names for dishes; this one took the prize:

“Pseudobagrus fulvidraco in a pan”. Now I know it’s the latin name for a fish sometimes referred to as yellow catfish and occasionally as Korean bullhead. But at the time all I knew was that the picture did not look very appetizing.
After lunch I was driven to this place:

With the government deciding that software development should be a key industry in ZhuHai and with 10 universities in town, this software park is home to more than 150 software development companies (some local, some branches of larger Chinese companies like Kingdee) is over 80% occupied. Rent is crazy low here, about US$5 per square meter. It’s a beautiful campus with one tower and six identical smaller buildings:


Unfortunately, while I was here to hopefully meet some companies that could supply services to mine, they had misunderstood the purpose of my visit. They thought I was there to rent offices to establish a China foothold for my company, not quite the case.
One thing I did learn is that in Zhu Hai, a junior programmer – university graduate with 1-2 years experience – could expect to earn 5,000 RMB (about US$780) per month; more experienced programmers could make up to 10k per month. It may not sound like much but I was also told that small apartments rent for around 300 RMB per month, so that 5k would actually go quite far.
After finishing here, there was what seemed like a very long (albeit scenic) drive back to the boat terminal. It was only 4 PM and I could have stuck around but to do what? I’d seen plenty of shopping malls but I couldn’t imagine I’d find anything in shops there that I couldn’t find in Hong Kong, Shenzhen or Macau. The only tourist-y thing I’d seen was the beach and the park and taking a hike along there alone didn’t strike me as having much potential. I could have easily gone to Macau but I just wasn’t in the mood and knew I had too much work waiting for me back home. So I simply hopped on the next boat and 75 minutes later was at the China Ferry Terminal in TST.
Not the most exciting of trips I know. Sorry if you’ve fallen asleep by now. It is indeed a beautiful city, especially what I believe to be the Gong Bei area around the river. There were long stretches there that probably resemble Hawaii – the city is beautifully maintained. But frankly, if I want to take a walk along the water in a nice park and then eat some seafood, there are plenty of places in Hong Kong where I can do that. I mean, come on, I live in Sai Kung, beautiful waterfront parks and beaches, great seafood restaurants, I don’t need to pay 400 bucks and sit on boats for 2-1/2 hours to do that, I can do it in my own backyard so to speak. If I had some friends to meet there or was going up with a large group of friends, maybe it would be different. Otherwise, I don’t think I need to rush back.
Or is there something up there that I don’t know about that’s worth another trip?