Because, as promised, tonight we went for dinner at Magnolia, the private kitchen serving New Orleans cuisine in Sheung Wan. As mentioned in an earlier post, you need to book ahead here (and you need to pay in advance to get a confirmed booking) because they are only open for dinner 3 nights per week and just one seating per night. The cost is $450 per person – no credit cards, no service charge. And since as a private kitchen they don’t have a liquor license, they have no corkage fee. Magnolia is run by Go Gourmet Catering and chef Lori Granito. They also have a take-away and delivery service called Ragin’ Cajun.
Arrive at their door in Sheung Wan and there is a sitting room for all the guests, with the kitchen in full view. There’s chef Lori Granito and her staff working away. This kitchen is spotlessly clean – TV clean. There’s some New Orleans rock & roll and zydeco playing on the stereo to get you in the mood.
While in the sitting room, you’re served a fruit juice cocktail along with a bunch of appetizers that give you a good idea of what you’re in for. There was some semi-soft cheese topped with sun dried tomatoes and herbs with a basket of crackers and toasted baguette slices. A bit of sausage and cheese on a biscuit. Boiled crab claws with a spicy remoulade dressing. Some tiny cornbread muffins with cheese and jalapeno peppers. And what for us was the piece de resistance – the best salmon mousse I’ve ever had.
After half an hour, you walk through the kitchen and upstairs to one of the three dining rooms. Each room features a single long table and everyone is seated together. In our room, there were 15 people at the table and we all instantly introduced ourselves to each other and it took only minutes for us to feel as if we were at a dinner party instead of a restaurant. It was friendly and relaxing.
After a few minutes Lori came in, introduced herself, explained the Magnolia concept (since it was the first time there for almost all of us) and told us what we’d be eating.
First up was soup, a classic file gumbo with shrimps, crab, chicken and andouille sausage. Really nice. The salad course was a salad featuring soft shell crab amandine – expertly cooked but not a standout in terms of flavor.
And then the main part of the meal – served family style on platters and bowls. The cajun ribs were without question the best ribs I’ve ever had in Hong Kong – juicy and fall off the bone tender with a nicely balanced barbecue sauce. The jambalaya was wonderfully cooked as well. And I also got into the fried catfish, served with a spicy cocktail sauce. There was one other main dish – sorry, I’ve blanked on what it was. Side dishes included sweet potato mash, okra and corn, collard greens, white rice and cornbread.
Dessert was a slice of one of the best pecan pies I’ve ever tasted, served with fresh whipped cream and a strawberry.
Are you getting the impression that you get a hell of a lot of food for your money? Yeah. You do. And it’s really good. I could have been happy filling up on just the gumbo and the ribs, but I wanted to be sure to at least taste a little of everything being brought to our table; the end result being that four hours later, I still feel so stuffed! I left feeling that the quantity and quality of what we were served meant that $450 was actually a bargain. My gf loved every bite and ate in one sitting what she usually eats in 3 meals and I think if they brought out more dishes, she would have found some room for those too!
But to be honest, as much as I enjoyed the food, I wouldn’t rate it at 5 stars. They’re presenting classic New Orleans recipes, very well made (to the best of my limited knowledge with this cuisine), but there is nothing done to elevate them or make them unique. If I’ve got no food photos to share, that’s because presentation here was an afterthought at most – there’s a white bowl filled with okra, there’s a platter piled high with ribs – no sauces drizzled around the plate, no towers of stacked food, no bits of parsley or flowers for a garnish. I was expecting the food to be spicier, too – isn’t that a constant in Cajun and Creole dishes or am I misinformed? Was the heat toned down for local tastes? Most (but not all) of the people there tonight were expats.
(Or perhaps I’m being hypercritical. I’ve already said that the salmon mousse and pecan pie were the best I’ve ever had and the ribs were easily the best I’ve had in Hong Kong. And we enjoyed the jambalaya, catfish, crab claws and gumbo too!)
Of course, the success of Magnolia speaks for itself. It’s been in operation for roughly 4-1/2 years and seems to depend primarily on word of mouth. We noted that for many of the groups who were there, it was a couple who had already been there introducing the place to friends. And Granito’s approach of doing each day’s menu based on what she found fresh in the market that morning (combined, no doubt, with some New Orleans specific ingredients that are flown in) is an admirable philosophy.
If the food for me was “only” 4 stars, I’d easily rate the overall experience at 5 stars. The food was all fresh and expertly prepared and served. The party atmosphere meant that we really relaxed and enjoyed ourselves. Everyone was friendly and the meal is served over the course of three hours, so you have time to relax between courses and savor your food and build up your strength for the next course. Was it worth the drive from Sai Kung to Sheung Wan in a heavy rainstorm? You bet your ass it was!
Six months from now, I may not remember the taste of the dishes that we had, but I will always remember how much fun we had there. And yes, we definitely will go back.